The Word. Santa Elena, Guatemala. October 31, 2009.
November 3, 2009. Back on the bus. Santa Elena is the sprawling, chaotic heighbor of Flores. On the mainland side, connected by causeway. Caught a colectivo out of here this morning. Picking up passengers along the road, before long we were standing room only and then not even. And a jammed-to-the-hilt bus doesn't mean they won't stop and pick up five or six more. Now my kidneys are bruised from the sharp-elbowed senora who sat beside me with a restless little girl in her lap. Smiles all around, though. I fought my way off in Rio Dulce. It's overnight here, then on to Livingston by fiberglass launch through the storied canyon walls. Pictures tomorrow. I hope.
The picture above is from the town of Sayaxchel, which is close enough to Santa Elena, I guess, but not really related to this report. I just thought it should be posted somewhere, not buried in a picture gallery. Returning now to Rio Dulce...
November 4, 2009. Morning update. Revised 2nd attempt, Nov. 5. The town of Rio Dulce has the same manic frenzy of ramshackle street commerce as Santa Elena to the north, most of of it concentrated in about six scruffy blocks of a narrow sidewalk-free main thoroughfare. Your pulse may rise as you step down from the bus into this seething scene, but, other than the river trip touts recognizing a potential tourist and making their perfunctory pitch, you'll be mostly anonymous as you stroll along, getting your bearings.
You'll find it's a tight fit. To complicate the ever-shifting, two-way choreography of pick-ups, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, bicycles, pushcarts and pedestrians, this stretch of road is also a piece of the main highway. So you have giant transport trucks inching their way forward, parting the masses.
I followed a curving side street away from this on my morning picture walk and enjoyed a papaya licuado at a covered stand. It was a one-blender operation. Later, I had a delicious breakfast at a open-air comedor. I always enjoy a Mexican-style breakfast, but they are often a little bland. This one was made with love. Nicely-spiced beans and a crumbly feta-like cheese to go with the fluffy scrambled eggs and slice of sweet potato. All served with a tortilla.
Speaking of which:
Those, of course, are hot tortillas, made by hand, minutes before. I'm rethinking my presentation strategy. Watch for changes. The photos will keep on coming, rest assured.