CAMPING IN WESTERN CANADA - Canoeing the Red Deer River
This is the first in my camping series. From the northwest and to the east of Drumheller, Alberta, the Red Deer River runs slowly through a valley of spectacular badlands. Fantastically-shaped hoodoos, box canyons and desolate hillsides can be seen rising from both sides of the river.
These fossil-strewn barrens have attracted paleontologists from around the globe. Many of the significant dinosaur discoveries are displayed and explained at the Royal Tyrrell Museum near Drumheller. Click the Google Map for directions from Calgary (strangely, Google doesn't show the river, only roads).
Driving east from Trochu on Hwy. 585, after dropping into the river valley, just before the Tolman bridge, you'll find the TL Bar Ranch. This is a working ranch that also operates a tourist business. The eastern boundary of the property is the river's shore. Along the banks, they have set up rustic campsites which are available first come, first served.
As well as trail rides, cabins and canoe rentals, the ranch offers a shuttle service for canoeists. If you make a prior arrangement, ranch staffers will travel with you to a point upstream and drive your vehicle back from whereever you choose to launch your canoe. A popular takeoff spot is from the Trenville county campground about 25 kms. north. This gives you around six hours of paddling time back to the ranch.
The journey is a relaxed one. There are no serious rapids or eddies in this part of the river, making the trip reasonably safe for children and novices. Remember that canoes can be tippy in any water, so lifejackets are recommended. Along the way you might see pelicans (below), Canada geese and even swans, as well as predator birds like falcons, eagles and hawks. Antelope and coyotes patrol the shores.