Temple 1.
Tikal, Guatemala. November 2, 2009. In an effort at freedom of movement I rented a small motorbike from a local tour operator with the idea of seeing Tikal in the morning, then doing a circumnavigation of Lago Peten Itza in the afternoon. I was up at 4:15, on the road at 4:45, intending to catch the massive temples rising from the forest in steamy dawn light, but a flat tire and the switch to standard time conspired to spoil the plan. By the 6:00 opening time, the sun is already above the horizon in this part of the world, the morning mist burning away.
Temple 2
Not that I was there at 6:00. I spent an hour dealing with park officials trying to find a working phone, first at the outer gate 17 kms. from the site, then, after flagging a local colectivo to take me in, at the visitor center by the main parking lot. I was trying to call the tour operator, give him the bad news, get the tire fixed. No answer, no service; it was hard to know - lots of shrugs and head shaking. We all gave up, finally. The bike was locked and safe with the park guards, so I went in to the site, dodging tourists making picnics in the great plaza, fighting photographically with the harsh white sky, anxious about the bike thing.
Temple 5
I allowed myself time to wander three areas; the Great Plaza, flanked by Temples 1 and 2 (first two pictures), the Central Acropolis and the South Acropolis, dominated by the stark, solitary Temple 5 (above, the view from which is seen in the two pictures below). Whatever astronomical and spiritual motives the Maya had for these impressive and unfathomable constructions, at the very least they got a great view of their flat forested homeland.
Just a curmudgeonly observation: for me, the magnificence is compromised by the industrial-scale tourism associated with the site. On the grounds, your eyes and ears are assaulted by various droning tour guides, young people making temporary camp in the middle of the ball court, chattering retirees, hollering youngsters, plastic bottle litter and the ultimate desecration, graffiti carved into the ancient monuments. This is not a theme park, people!
Then it was back by bus to Flores and heated words with the operator over who was responsible for what. Happy to say it was settled amicably. I trudged up to my room, drained by stress and climbing pyramids, needing a shower and a siesta. What's this? Maintenance work. The water was turned off. This is why we travel.
I now have a backlog of photos and reports to post (no internet today until an hour ago). Leaving tomorrow for the Rio Dulce, where the early Tarzan movies were shot.
