Hierve El Agua
Near Mitla, Oaxaca, Mexico. December 11, 2009.
About 45 kms. east of Oaxaca, further past Mitla, Hierve El Agua (Spanish for "the water boils") is a collection of springs pumping water out of a remote mountainside, leaving calcium deposits resembling petrified waterfalls. The setting is majestic, high above a forested valley, but first you need to get there.
The turn off the highway brings you briefly along a concrete road, but once you cross the first bridge and enter a dusty, ramshackle village, the pavement ends and it becomes a wonky dirt track winding between cactus-fenced yards. You need to go slow and the signs are plentiful.
As you leave the highway, you'll see it's serious high-desert country with a gorgeous variety of large cactus plants. After you've made it through the village the trail improves somewhat and then begins to climb.
And climb and climb. You'll rise quickly, twisting up some fairly sharp switchbacks. The road's in decent shape - not too loose or rutted, with wide spots at every turn. I made it in something I rented called a Dodge Atos (although it was bearing a Hyundai badge). You'll drop down eventually and come to a highland village. Again, keep following the signs.
A short hike from the parking area descends to a magnificent view, the pale yellowish limestone blanketing the site gleaming in contrast to the deep greens of the huge valley far below. A series of distant hills and mountain ranges can be seen.
Coinciding with my arrival, two pick up trucks offloaded a large group of sightseers, kind of a European Union of tattooed, cheerful youngsters. A good number of Mexican tourists were also enjoying the site. This place is well-photographed.
If you make it here, bring swimwear. It will be one of the most unique swimming and sun-bathing excursions you'll ever encounter. A retaining wall has been constructed back of the cliff, to catch the trickling flow of water and form a pool.
Monte Alban Details
Oaxaca de Juarez, Oaxaca, Mexico. December 10, 2009.
Probably nobody goes to Monte Alban for the trees, but look at this pair. There are postcards and posters and internet pages where you can see an aerial view of the ancient ruin. I offer here some isolated shots of a magnificent site. Stark and brooding. Except for when the loader drove across the main plaza, it was completely quiet up there.
The administrators at the site have a policy of no tripods unless previously arranged and permitted. I find this silly, absent an explanation, but they must have reasons. Are they worried about the legs damaging the monuments? I wasn't told. So I was hand-held for these.
